Fallujah, Iraq the 16. August 2004

Dear Friends and Family

My father always told me, “be careful what you wish for, you may get it”. Again, this proved true. I was wishing to be out of the Hotel Sadeer, and I am. As of the 4th of August I have been transferred to a FOB, a “Forward Operating Base” in the Al Anbar Region. The City of Ramadi is governing seat and headquarters of the First Marine Division for the Al Anbar Region. My new home is with a district base just South-East of the City of Fallujah. We are called Camp Fallujah. Although I can not, have not and most probably will not see anything of Fallujah city, we are very much aware of its nearby presence. Almost nightly , the camp has received incoming mortar rounds. Two or three at a time. Thankfully they fall scattered in the waste unoccupied space that surrounds the camp. Each time the Marines reciprocate with a barrage of eight rounds of 155mm artillery cannon fire. If the mortars don’t get your attention, the big cannons will roll you out of bed. ?

In the days leading up to my “forced transfer”, we had lots of insurgent activity in Baghdad. On the first of August a car bomb missed one of our trucks driving along the river road towards the entrance to the green zone. About 18:45 the same day, a couple of car bombs were detonated near two Christian churches; one was a mere two blocks from our Hotel. The widows rattled and the curtains blew first outwards and then inwards.

On the morning of the second of August I was un-ceremoniously given my transfer memorandum advising me to report to Fallujah. No argument necessary, my options were simply to go or leave the mission. Not a choice for me at this time. So I packed my trash and with the help of a couple other mission members who were going to join up with a military convoy headed in that direction, I was on my way to cover the 35 miles separating me from my new home away from home. The thought of going to Fallujah did not thrill me very much, but I was glad to get out of the Sadeer. Saying good by to Muhamed and Tom proved hard. Muhamed had come to represent the best of the Iraqi people to me. I have learned a lot from him about the view from their side.

We were told to meet with the Marine convoy at 08:00 hrs just outside of Baghdad at Camp Victory. What was failed to be clarified was that we would not leave for Camp Fallujah until dark. Hurry up and wait…..12 hours. ? It pays the same. Our convoy of 17 vehicles got under way at dusk. The three of us were in a DynCorp armored Chevy Suburban, loaded to the roof with provisions and equipment. There was just enough space in the backseat for me and my gear. If that was not claustrophobic enough, remember that on a fully armored vehicle you can’t roll down the windows. I sure miss my little thin skinned Nissan Patrol. The distance as I said, is about the same as between Little Rock and Conway, going along I-40. The country side reminded me of South Arkansas between Pine Bluff and Lake Village, flat, sparsely populated and wide open. Totally blacked out, we drove into the camp a little past midnight.

The camp was also in pitch darkness. Of course with the quality mission management and superior logistical planning we enjoy, no one at the camp knew that I was coming. They just dropped me off. With the help of two young Marines and the camp duty officer, I was billeted for the night in a large tent designated for short term housing or transient personnel. I did not care, they could have hung me from a ceiling fan, I just wanted to sleep. Everyone should try getting up during the night, in total darkness, in unfamiliar surroundings, not knowing where you are, yet alone where anything else is and having a strong urge to go pee. ? Where it was I left my mark, I still have some questions about. No problem.

The next day we had plenty of sunlight. Boy do we have sunlight. The camp is a former Iraqi military installation about 12 square blocks of buildings, streets and compounds. Three blocks wide and four blocks long. We have paved streets and inner walled compounds. Some buildings are older; some are prefab and have been established during the last year. One can find what you really need on a small base. We have a nice size chow hall that serves 4 squares a day. Nothing to brag about, but its free food. A small PX, barber shop, post office and a hospital with SIX ambulances out front. Big problem. ? Beyond the inner part of the base is a wide open, flat, bare desert outer area.

To my best guesstimation I would say that at least six square miles of secured outer perimeter, completely walled, are under the security of our Marines. The only thing that grows here is what has been purposely planted and watered by the past regime. This is desert, not sand desert, but gravel, rock and sand desert. Some of the sand is as fine as talcum powder and gets into everything…..I mean everything. All the electricity is supplied by diesel generators that are all over the place and run day and night, all the time. Everything has to be trucked, water in, sewer out. Most of the approximate 3000 Marines and civilian personnel live in three large trailer parks.

Each trailer is 12’by36’ and is divided into three double rooms. Each room being 12’by12’. Gracefully I have one to myself. About thirty trailers to a row, six rows…..figure it out. Communal bathrooms are in the center. Not the standard I am used to, but entirely tolerable for now. At least I can get outside and take a walk.

On the evening of my second day I was ask to come to Ramadi to meet with the Regional Commander. Rather than finding a convoy, I was to fly by helicopter. Sweet ? The Fallujah LZ…yeh, that’s “Landing Zone” to all you NONE military types, is away from the base camp. Again in total darkness. Four CH-46 See Knights landed at the same time to end up going into two different directions. About 12 persons and crew fit into one of these big birds with twin rotors. Open windows and rear hatch, two 50 cal. machine gunners for protection and the hot desert night air blowing curls in your hair. Below it looked like any other rural countryside. Well lit up. No electrical shortage there. At one point we flew over a portion of Lake Habbaniyah. After a day of orientation, I was send back to Fallujah the same way I came.

Two other mission guys and I are stationed here to serve the role of “Liasion Officers” between the Iraqi Police staff and the Marines. What started as “Iraqi Police Field Training Officers” last December has metamorphosised into a quasi military extension function. Our contact with the Iraqi Police commanders in this area is limited to meeting with them at some “neutral liaison” zone just outside the base. Of the seven police stations that are under our jurisdiction, only two are accessible to us and then only with heavy military escort. The relationship with the I.P.s here is far more adversarial then in the Baghdad area.

The days are slow with little more to do but to be here. We have an office and are free to move about the base at will. The one thing we do not have on base is any kind of alcohol, nothing…dry. I mean Carrie Nations kind of dry. ? Of all places in the world that need to be wet, this is the place. I would like to know how far it is to the nearest liquor store. Perhaps if I can get an armed military convoy or maybe an Abrams tank…..how many cases would fit in an Abrams? Last time I needed a guy with an AK-47 to escort me to buy beer, now I need a convoy of armor….. This is getting ridicules. ?

Ma Al Salama
Rod